Introduction

This page contains a full construction tutorial for the Rusper Blouse.

Our new “full tutorials” combine the written instructions and diagrams from the printed instruction manual with links to the relevant section of the pattern’s YouTube tutorial video. The video links are specially set up to just show the relevant part of the video and will offer an option to replay just that section if you want to watch it again.

You can either use this tutorial entirely on your device, or if you prefer to use the paper manual and want to look at the video for a specific step, you can find the step below and directly watch the relevant video section. Steps are numbered in the same way as in the printed manual.

Step 1

Create a tiny hem between the two central notches on the sleeve hem (about 5cm apart near the centre of the cuff end). Clip into the fabric at the notches and turn up by 0.4cm onto the wrong side of the sleeve, then turn up by 0.4cm again. Press. Stitch as shown.

STEP 2

Fold the sleeves, right sides together, and pin along the underarm seam. Stitch. Overlock/zig-zag to finish seam. Press seam toward the back sleeve (indicated by double notch).

STEP 3

Stitch 2 rows of long gathering stitches around the cuff end of each sleeve, starting and ending at the edge of the pin hem opening. One line of stitching should be 1cm from the raw edge, and one should be 0.5cm from the raw edge, as shown.

STEP 4

Fold the sleeve ties and the neck tie in half, length-ways, right sides together. Pin and stitch both ends of the ties as shown, from the first notch to the tip using 1cm seam allowance.

STEP 5

Trim the end of the seam allowance and clip into the seam allowance curve every 2cm or so. Turn through. Clip into the seam allowance at the notch so that the un-stitched seam allowance is free. Press.

STEP 6

Pin one sleeve tie seam allowance (right side) to the wrong-side of the sleeve. Each end of the tie seam allowance should be pinned to each edge of the pin hem opening. The centre of the sleeve tie should be pinned to the underarm seam. Fold tie in half to find the centre. Pull up the sleeve gathers such that the pinned sleeve section is the same length as the pinned tie section. Ensure the gathers are evenly distributed but do not gather at the underarm. Notches indicate the underarm area to be left ungathered. Add more pins to secure. Stitch as shown, along the existing 1cm row of gathering stitches.

Note: if you are unsure about applying the sleeve tie, please see that section of the tutorial video, as it is easier to show than to describe!

STEP 7

Push seam allowance, just stitched, up inside the tie. Fold the sleeve tie seam allowance onto the wrong side of the sleeve tie placing folded edge to stitch line just sewn on right side of sleeve to enclose the seam allowance within the tie. Pin and stitch close to the edge of the tie as shown. Press. Tie the sleeve ties as desired.

STEPS 8

Pin blouse fronts, right sides together, along centre front from the notch to the hem. Stitch as shown. Overlock/zigzag to finish seam and press to one side.

STEP 9

For the centre front above the notch. Clip into notch to free up the seam allowance. Fold seam allowance onto the wrong side of the front by 0.5cm, then fold by 0.5cm again to form a narrow hem. Press. Stitch as shown. At the bottom of the V stitch back & forth several times with a small stitch to improve strength or use a bar tack or tiny zigzag stitch.

STEP 10

Pin front blouse to back blouse, right sides together, along side seams. Stitch as shown. Zig-zag/overlock to finish seam. Press seam toward back.

STEP 11

Pin sleeves to front/back arm holes, right sides together, matching notches and seams. Stitch. Overlock/zigzag to finish seam. Press seams toward sleeve. Turn through.

STEP 12

Stitch two rows of long gathering stitches around the neckline as shown. One row should be 0.5cm from the neckline and one should be 1cm from the neckline as before.

STEP 13

Find the centre of the neck tie by folding in half lengthwise. Pin one free seam allowance of tie right side to the wrong side of the centre back neck of blouse, matching notches as shown. Pull up the neckline gathers until the length of the neckline is the same as the length of the neck tie section. Ensure gathers are evenly distributed. Do the same to the other side of neckline. Add more pins to secure. Stitch as shown, along the existing 1cm row of gathering stitches.

STEP 14

In a similar method to step 7, turn the remaining neck tie seam allowance onto the wrong side of the neck tie. Press. Pushing gathered seam up inside the tie, fold the neck tie over, wrong sides together, such that the free edge of the tie aligns with the right side of the bodice neckline stitch-line just sewn. Pin and stitch close to the edge of the tie as shown.

STEP 15

Turn up the blouse hem by 0.5cm onto the wrong wide of the bodice. Turn by another 0.5cm and pin. Stitch. Press.

Enjoy.

Rusper Blouse Full Tutorial