Sidley Skirt Full Tutorial

Introduction

This page contains a full construction tutorial for the Sidley Skirt.

Our new “full tutorials” combine the written instructions and diagrams from the printed instruction manual with links to the relevant section of the pattern’s YouTube tutorial video. The video links are specially set up to just show the relevant part of the video and will offer an option to replay just that section if you want to watch it again.

You can either use this tutorial entirely on your device, or if you prefer to use the paper manual and want to look at the video for a specific step, you can find the step below and directly watch the relevant video section. Steps are numbered in the same way as in the printed manual.

Step 1

Stitch 2 rows of long gathering stitches across the tops of the skirt side panels (you will have 2 pairs of side panels). One row of stitching should be 1cm from the raw edge and one row should be 0.5cm from the raw edge.

STEP 2

For each side skirt panel, identify the matching side yoke (single notches denote the side seam on the yoke, double notches denote the side seam on the skirt). Pin the side yokes to the skirt side panels, right sides together, at the corners and pull up the gathering stitches until the length of the side skirt matches the length of the side panel. Ensure the gathers are evenly distributed. Pin and stitch as shown.

Overlock/zig-zag to finish the seams and press up toward the yoke.

STEP 3

Pin one pair of side panels to the CF skirt, right sides together, matching notches. The upper notch on the skirt CF should match the seam between the side yoke and side skirt. Repeat for the CB and the other pair of side panels. Stitch as shown.

Overlock/zig-zag to finish the seams and press seam allowance toward CF/CB.

Overlock/zig-zag the raw edges (side seams) of all side skirt/yoke panels.

STEP 4

Open the zip. Pin one side of the zip tape to the edge of one side yoke/side panel, right sides together, as shown. Ensure you leave 1cm of zip tape above the stopper to allow for the seam allowance at the waistline. It doesn’t matter which panel you choose as the skirt is the same front & back, so you can wear the zip on the side of your choosing. Stitch one row of stitching near the edge of the zip tape. Stitch another row as close as possible to the zip teeth, using a zip foot.

NOTE: If you are not familiar with inserting concealed zips then you may benefit from watching the zip insertion steps of the tutorial video.

STEP 5

Repeat the process for the other half of the zip tape: pin the zip tape to the side yoke of other the front/back skirt, right sides together. Check that the zip tape sits flat and that both sides are neatly aligned. Stitch 2 rows of stitching as in the previous step.

STEP 6

Pin the rest of the side seam on the zip side, right sides together. Stitch from the bottom of the zip to the hem. Press the seam open. Pin and stitch the other side seam. Press seam open.

STEP 7

Iron interfacing onto the wrong side of both yoke facings.

STEP 8

Pin yoke facings along one of the short edges, right sides together. Stitch. Press seam open.

STEP 9

Overlock/zig-zag the long outside edge of the facing.

STEP 10

Open the zip. Fold zip tape back onto wrong side of skirt yoke. Pin yoke facing to skirt, right sides together at waist, matching notches and seams, as shown. Allow the edges of the yoke to extend 1cm beyond the edge of the skirt at both ends. Stitch from zip tape to zip tape. Note: consult video if you are unsure.

STEP 11

Trim the corners of the seam allowances as shown and clip into the seam allowance every 3cm or so. Press the seam allowance toward the facing.

STEP 12

Under stitch on the right side of the facing, close to the seam line, as shown. Turn facing onto wrong side of skirt and press to form a crisp edge.

STEP 13

Pin the yoke facing to the inside of the skirt, ensuring it lays flat to the skirt. Stitch on the right side of the skirt along the top of the all the side panels, close to the existing seams, as shown.

STEP 14

Fold the 1cm of facing that overlaps the zip under the facing, as shown. Pin and hand sew.

STEP 15

Overlock/zig-zag the skirt hem. Fold up the hem by 1cm onto the wrong side of the skirt. Pin & stitch. Press.

Enjoy!