If you search for “types of sleeve” in Google, in can be pretty intimidating. It’s easy to find lists of 20 to 30 different types with various exotic names - Leg of Mutton, Angel, Bishop, Butterfly, the list goes on.

Although this is useful, for a beginner it can be hard to know where to start.

So let’s try to keep it simple, and give ourselves a basic understanding of sleeves.

For novices, there are really just a few main types of sleeve you will come across. Most other sleeves are variations of these main types.

Kimono and Dolman Sleeves

*A Short Kimono Sleeve, on my* *Amberley Dress*

A longer Kimono sleeve on my Saltdean Dress (here shortened into a top)

A Kimono Sleeve is one where the sleeve is cut as an integral part of the bodice or dress, rather than as a separate piece (my Saltdean Dress pattern has a Kimono style sleeve). The classic T-Shape of doll’s clothes is a Kimono Sleeve. The Dolman Sleeve is similar in that it is cut as part of the bodice, but it has a different shape, joining the bodice far lower down - they are often called Bat Wing sleeves in reference to this shape - and are more common than the Kimono sleeve. These sleeve types are simple to make, since there are no separate sleeve pieces to join to the bodice/dress. However, long integral sleeves like the bat wing result in large pattern pieces that use a lot of fabric, often necessitating a seam down the centre back of the garment. You can often see a seam like this on an actual Kimono.

I remember having many items of clothing with ‘batwing’ sleeves in the 80’s. They were really popular at the time but really bulky when you tried to put a coat over the top!

Raglan Sleeve

A Raglan Sleeve attaches to the bodice with a diagonal seam which extends to the neckline. Raglan sleeves are fairly easy to construct (often easier than the more common Set-in Sleeve). They are also relatively easy to adjust and make comfortable for your particular body shape by adjusting the diagonal seam. You can find a raglan sleeve on my Firle Coat pattern, which contributes to making this an easy coat to sew, especially if its your first one.

Set-In Sleeve

The final type is the Set-in Sleeve. This joins the bodice with a seam that goes around the arm over the shoulder. They are a very common type of sleeve - you are possibly wearing one right now. A shirt sleeve is a classic example. Sometimes, as with simple T-Shirt patterns, these are reasonably easy to sew. However, in more complex garments the end of the sleeve that attaches to the bodice (the “cap”) needs to be shaped & eased to fit nicely, which can be tricky.

Check out our video tutorials page as many of the pattern tutorials will show you how to insert set-in sleeves. Set in sleeves have lots of different variations, for example the Hove Dress has set-in puff sleeves.

I like to add gathering threads to the head of these type of sleeves in slippery or silky fabrics to aid the easing of them into the armhole.

So, there you have it, those are the basic sleeve types. I hope it gives you a good grounding before exploring the full, glorious world of sleeves!